Buyer education
Why get a home inspection โ and what salt air adds to the list
A standard inspection tells you about the house. On the water you also need to know about the seawall, the dock, the elevation, and what fifteen years of salt air has been doing to everything metal.
The baseline
What a general inspection covers
A Florida home inspection is a visual, non-invasive review of the readily accessible parts of a property. It is not code enforcement, not an appraisal, not a warranty. It is a written record of what one qualified person could observe on one day without taking anything apart.
Expect coverage of the roof surface and structure, attic, insulation and ventilation, foundation and visible structure, exterior cladding, drainage and grading, windows and doors, electrical panel and accessible wiring, plumbing supply and drains, water heater, HVAC and ductwork, built-in appliances and the garage.
What it does not cover is anything behind a wall, under the yard, or below the waterline. On coastal property that last one matters, which is why the add-ons below are not optional extras here.
The two reports that decide your premium
Wind mitigation and the 4-point
On this coast the insurance premium is often the number that decides whether a deal works. Two reports drive it, and neither is part of a standard home inspection unless you ask.
Wind mitigation
Documents roof shape, roof covering and permit date, deck attachment, roof-to-wall connection, secondary water barrier and opening protection. Florida law requires insurers to offer credits for qualifying features. Within sight of the ocean, the difference between a hip roof with double wraps and shutters and a gable with none is not a rounding error.
4-point
Age and condition of roof, electrical, plumbing and HVAC. Insurers routinely require it on older homes before they will write a policy at all. It is an underwriting document, not a buyer's report.
Order insurance quotes inside the inspection period. Not after. A house with a fifteen-year-old roof three blocks from the Atlantic can quote at a number that changes the entire arithmetic of the purchase, and you want to know that while you still have an exit.
The coastal add-ons
What I want checked on waterfront and near-water property
- Seawall or bulkhead. Cap cracking, tieback condition, voids or sinkholes behind the wall, weep hole function, and any sign the wall is leaning. Replacement is a six-figure conversation on some lots. Where a wall looks doubtful, bring in a marine contractor or engineer, not a general inspector.
- Dock, pilings and boat lift. Piling condition at and below the waterline, decking and stringers, electrical to the lift, lift cables and motor, and whether the structure matches what is actually permitted.
- Permits and riparian status. Ask early whether the dock, lift and any shoreline work were permitted and whether a submerged land lease applies. This is a title and survey question as much as an inspection one.
- Elevation and flood. Get the elevation certificate. Flood zone determines whether flood insurance is a loan requirement, and elevation drives the premium.
- Corrosion, everywhere. Salt air attacks HVAC condenser coils, garage door hardware, fasteners, hurricane straps, railings, lighting and exterior electrical. On a house within a mile of open water, an air handler and condenser can age faster than their nameplate life.
- Windows, doors and impact glazing. Whether the openings are actually rated, and whether the labels and product approvals exist. It affects both safety and the wind mitigation credit.
- Stucco and moisture intrusion, particularly on 1990s and 2000s construction. A moisture survey is money well spent.
- Crawl space and pier foundations on older beach and river cottages โ ventilation, moisture, and the condition of any steel.
Money
What it costs on the First Coast
| Service | Typical range | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| General home inspection | $350 โ $700 | Higher end for larger coastal homes |
| Wind mitigation | $75 โ $150 standalone | Frequently bundled. Always ask |
| 4-point | $75 โ $150 standalone | Expect it on homes roughly 30 years and older |
| WDO / termite | $75 โ $150 | Standard practice on VA files, sensible on all |
| Sewer scope | $150 โ $300 | Older beach and downtown St. Augustine streets |
| Mould and air sampling | $200 โ $500 | Coastal humidity plus closed-up second homes |
| Marine contractor or engineer assessment | Quoted case by case | Any seawall or dock you are relying on |
Against the price of a waterfront property, this is not where to economise. The one number people regret skipping is the seawall assessment.
After the report
Sorting sixty pages into four decisions
- Insurability first. Roof age, panel type, plumbing material, four-point findings. If the house cannot be insured at a sane price, nothing else on the report matters.
- Structure and water intrusion second. Seawall, foundation, active leaks, stucco moisture.
- Big-ticket age third. HVAC, water heater, dock and lift. Not defects โ dated bills.
- Cosmetic last, and mostly ignore it.
Then choose: repairs before closing, a credit at closing, a price adjustment, or nothing. My general advice is to take money rather than repairs where you sensibly can, because a departing seller hires the cheapest available contractor and you would rather choose your own.
Your inspection period is a contract deadline. Book the inspection the day you go under contract, and if you need longer for a marine or engineering assessment, ask for the extension in writing before the period expires.
Choosing
Picking an inspector on the coast
- Verify the Florida licence yourself at DBPR.
- Ask specifically whether they inspect docks, seawalls and lifts, or whether they exclude them. Many exclude them, and that is a legitimate answer โ you just need to know before the day.
- Ask for a sample report on a comparable property.
- Confirm whether wind mitigation and the 4-point are included.
- Walk it with them. The attic and the shoreline are where you learn the most.
A list of licensed local companies, with the licence numbers they publish, is on my home inspectors directory. It is a directory, not a recommendation.
Common questions
Will a home inspector inspect my dock and seawall?
Some will look at them, many will explicitly exclude them, and none of them are marine contractors. If a seawall or dock is a significant part of the value, bring in a specialist. Ask what is included before you book.
Do I need a flood elevation certificate?
If the property is in a flood zone, get one. It affects whether flood insurance is required by your lender and how much it costs. Sometimes the seller already has one.
Is a wind mitigation report worth it on a newer coastal home?
Usually more so, not less. Newer construction tends to score well on exactly the features insurers credit, so the discount is often biggest on the homes people assume do not need the report.
Should I inspect a new-construction beach house?
Yes, and in three stages if you can: pre-drywall, final walk-through, and an eleven-month inspection before the builder warranty expires. That last one is the cheapest money in the whole transaction.
Can I waive the inspection to win a bidding war?
You can. On coastal property I would push back hard. The exposures here โ seawall, roof, insurance โ are exactly the kind that turn into five and six figure numbers, and waiving means you own all of them the moment you close.
Looking at something on the water?
I have built docks, scraped barnacles and paid the maintenance bills. Send me the address and I will tell you what I would want inspected before I let anyone I care about sign for it.
Important notices
General buyer education for the First Coast. This is not a home inspection, an engineering opinion, an insurance opinion or legal advice. Tim Sherman is a licensed Florida real estate sales associate, not a home inspector, marine contractor, engineer or insurance agent.
Cost ranges reflect what was typical in this market in August 2026 and are not quotes. Inspection scope, insurer requirements and pricing change โ confirm with the professionals you actually intend to use.
No inspector, contractor, engineer or insurer is endorsed on this page, and Tim Sherman receives no compensation for directing business to any of them.
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